A Sojourn to Christmas in Calcutta

Sandip Banerjee

Colonialism in itself is not just apolitical or economic phenomenon. It is also a strong determinant of the psycho-social state of the colonised territory. The two centuries of British rule in India would thus leave behind an indelible mark of legacy on the domain of Indian life. The celebration of Christmas in Calcutta is one of such significant instances which are still continuing to be observed with no plummeting of vigour or propensity. What is even more striking is the all pervasive impact that the festival of Christmas has cast, over the years on the city of Calcutta.

Calcutta was the capital of British India till 1911.Being ‘The Second City of the Empire’, as it was popularly called during the days of the Raj, Calcutta witnessed maximum discourse of British colonialism, which penetrated deep into the cultural fabric of the city. Christmas being the most popular amongst the European festivals, ignited the minds of the Indian community, mostly the Bengalis, living in the city, many of whom gladly identified themselves with the British masters, in mood and manners.

The spirit of Calcutta Christmas during the nineteenth century is wonderfully expressed in one short write-up of Dave Carson, one of the prominent artistes of the nineteenth century –

“To Wilson’s or to Spence’s Hall
On holiday I stray
With freedom call for mutton chops
And billiards play all day”

In a coverage made by the Calcutta Gazette in 1788 we note that the music of Christmas was echoed all over Calcutta. It was mostly celebrated by the affluent European community but soon necessity arose to accommodate every European. To that effect a charitable fund was formed in 1800 to support distressed Europeans during Christmas. In 1804 the Calcutta Gazette further reports that one gentleman named Colonel Harcourt , a native of Calcutta, who, when he shifted to Cuttack,  arranged a pompous Christmas party there, keeping everyone wide-eyed in amazement. A survey informs that way back in early eighteenth century Calcutta had a population of around 5,000 British people. So a festival was always on and as the city started housing more and more Europeans, the festival became larger than life. Even during the great mutiny of 1857, there was no deterrence to the festive sprit. It was still so much in cry that a plump turkey cost Rs 14 during the Christmas of 1857.

There was indeed a time when Calcutta was spectator to perhaps the most gorgeous celebration of Christmas in the continent of Asia. The grand buildings in and around Park Street and Chowringhee would be embellished in the glittering of light and other colourful display. The British inhabitants, the Anglo-Indians, the native elites – all used to rejoice with their special attire and ornate possessions, exclusively meant for Christmas. The baking sun and the chilly climate made things more conducive to mellow joyfulness. The flavour of this fiesta could be inhaled even from the Government House. The Governor General in the company of the illustrious compatriots attended the mass at the St. Paul’s Cathedral. A vice-regal dinner was hosted featuring the characteristic dishes like boar’s head or roast turkey, along with plum pudding and imported wine. The bash would be highlighted with sporting activities ranging from tennis to polo and cricket to horse racing. The whole atmosphere was charged with a euphoria in which the Viceroy XI played against the Maharaja of Coochbehar XI. Merry-balls and dances was the very flavour of the seasonal mirth. The vicinity of Park Street and New Market was the epicentre of all activities. Park Street during the colonial days used to be Asia’s prime happy-destination centre. The Christmas lit up the place with a resplendence of aura, unmatched anywhere in India. Even after the shift of Capital from Calcutta to Delhi, the Christmas party in Calcutta was unrivalled. As the season set on, people started gearing up for the ‘Budadin’ as was popularly termed and continue to be so even till date. Elitism from across the country and even from abroad flocked to be a part of the delight of the whole show. The Stuart Hogg Market was frequented by people to have an update of European style. Department stores like Hall and Anderson showcased the most delectable items for Christmas gifts, with the spread of hats, toys, crackers and mementos.

Since Christmas has the popular tradition of being enjoyed with cakes and ale, both of these would be in high demand at this time of the year. A leap into the depths of time reveals how homemade cakes and wine gratified the popular appetite. In the words of Rosemary Hart, “Christmas without homemade port wine is no Christmas”. The Anglo-Indian community, particularly at the Bow Barracks, brewed as they still do some of the best homemade wine available in the city.

Everyone willing to sway in the mood of Christmas gala was ready to be intoxicated by the draught of such wine. The homemade bakery gradually got replaced by professional confectioners. Days have changed but not the taste and therefore confectioners like Nahoums, particularly with their plum cakes have been satisfying the gastronomical desire of the people for more than a century. The once existing D’Gamas was also a popular destination for connoisseurs of pudding and walnut cakes. The British days saw the various range of bakery products and meticulous choice of wine, suited to the occasion.

The end of British rule in India fostered a kind of dilution of the stately pomp and splendour of the pre-independent era and the Christmas spree in Calcutta perhaps got more democratic. The neighbourhood of Park Street still continued to be the prime locale of the seasonal festivities. The Anglo-Indian community was still noticeably present in Calcutta during the 50s and 60s of the last century and as usual contributed towards the colour, flavour and music of Christmas revelry. There used to be an effulgence of passion in areas like Park Street, Camac Street, Eliot Road, and Ripon Street. It was as if the colonial days still continued, with lilting melodies, creating redolence in the air. The whole ambience put up a stupendous plethora of feelings where irrespective of religious identity; everyone swooned in the lullaby of merriment. Any account on Calcutta Christmas would inevitably be incomplete without mentioning the Armenian community of this city who have been one of the oldest communities to enjoy Christmas in Calcutta. It might date back to as early as 1707. Originally they celebrated on 6th of January every year as they traditionally believed it to be the birthday of Christ. Later, that tradition changed with the passage of time. The two hundred odd Armenian residents of this city still lights the Christmas candles as a memoir of their long association with this city.

The Park Street magic still moved through the 70s in the form of lively music played at the restaurants. There were performers like Carlton Kitto and Louis Banks and the legendary Pam Craine enthralling the visitors at the Blue Fox. The Trincas would feature iconic entertainers in the form Usha Iyer (now Usha Utthup).There was live band playing at the Firpo’s that even featured cabaret. Everyone who so desired would have the opportunity to twist on dancing numbers. Other places like Moulin Rouge, Magnolia and Mocambo were equally vibrant with fun and sprightliness.

The gradual migration of the Anglo-Indian community created a note of lacuna in the Christmas carousal of Calcutta. However, there was no decadence in the desire for celebration. Though the original glam waned, crowd still conglomerated in the periphery of Park Street; the bubble of enthusiasm was fully stretched.

As the chariot of time moved, the nature of Christmas in Calcutta has become more variegated, though one can still find the original recipe. Though the faces have changed but the taste of ginger wine in the Bow Barracks; the palatable cakes of Flurys and the enthusiasm of the crowd have not diminished. The food festival at the Allen Park, the illumined canopy hovering Park Street, the essence of joyous romance are still captivating the psyche of ‘Kolkatans‘ as we may call it now. What is so splendid about Christmas in Calcutta is definitely its inclusive nature. V.S. Naipaul once highlighted on this nature of the city, having a blending of the east and the west. There has been no other place in India that has participated in Christmas like the ‘City of Joy’. According to Joseph Edward Natal, a present day Anglo-Indian resident of the city, Christmas in Calcutta is not just a festival of Christians but it is a festival of Bengal. Ramakrishna Mission celebrates Christmas in its centres throughout the world. Swamiji once said “If I as an Oriental have to worship Jesus of Nazareth, there is only one way that is to worship him as God and nothing else.” It might seem a strange coincidence that Swamiji entered into monastic life, along with his compatriots on Christmas Eve in 1886. Very much remaining in tandem with the ideals of Swamiji, the Ramakrishna Mission idolises Christmas as a day of celebration of human values that nurture mutual caring and sharing and transform life itself into a festival.

Over the years Calcutta has become Kolkata but the jubilations of Christmas seems to have suspended time. The carnival goes on with twinkling lights, ornamental decorations and smacking aroma of confectioners. Even today standing on the pavements of Park Street one can fancifully see the images of British and Indian aristocracy unfolding a panorama of royal epiphany. Again as the roseate glow of fancy sheds one witnesses that the images have changed but not the intent to dip into the Yule-tide of Christmas, for the jingle bells sounded then and they equally sound now, greeting ‘MERRY CHRISTMAS’.