Bagbazar

Anindita Mazumder

The name “Baag Buzar” was derived from the Perrin’s Garden, a pleasure resort, frequented by the Company’s covenanted servants with their ladies for an evening stroll or moonlight fete. Captain Perrin was the owner of several ships. His garden stretched between the present Haralal Mitra Street and Chitpur Road (Rabindra Sarani) near River Hooghly and was sold to the Company in 1749.

The Company sold the property to J. Z. Holwell for a sum of Rs 2500 in 1752. Perrin’s Point was at the north-western apex of his garden. Col. C. F. Scott started manufacturing gun powder at the gardens in 1754. An octagonal “Redoubt” to protect Calcutta was built in 1855 and a year later a small garrison of 60 European and native soldiers led by Ensign Piccard repulsed the attack by the Nawab’s forces.

While the English left Sutanuti for Kalikata and Govindapore the native, wealthy Bengalis settled in this part by the Holy Ganges; demographically Bagbazar is primarily a neighbourhood of upper-caste Hindus. Hence, we find the locality names like Mukhujjyapara, Gosainpara, Bosepara, Rajballavpara instead of Sankibhanga, Kasaitola or Murgihata as was the case in the brown town which had mixed population. There were a few families belonging to the lower strata of the caste system, wholly dependent on these wealthy families for a livelihood. Since the Hindus drank milk there is a Goalapara and a few families of fishermen folk in Jeliapara to supply fish, a delicacy which the upper caste preferred to mutton, observed Kironchandra Dutta who chronicled the history of Bagbazar.

It is no coincidence that Bagbazar has a number of temples including the more famous Madanmohan Jiu and Maa Siddheswari which still draws huge number of devotees every day. It is said that the deity of Madanmohan Jiu was pawned by the Raja Chaitanya Singh of Bishnupur to Gokul Mitra who lent him money to tide over his financial crisis. The Raja failed to repay and Gokul Mitra refused to return the idol as it had brought him fortune including Chandey Chowk in a lottery. He decided to set up a new temple for the God.

Bagbazar is also the birthplace of native Bengali theatre. In 1867, Girish Chandra Ghosh, a bookkeeper by profession and his friends including stage director, Dharmadas Sur and Radhamadhab Kar formed an amateur theatre group at Bagbazar. Bagbazar Amateur Theatre performed a play by Dinabandhu Mitra, ‘Sadhabar Ekadashi’ which required minimal expense on costume and saw Girish Chandra flowering as an actor, playing the role of Nimchand brilliantly. It also saw the coming together of another dedicated and talented actor, Ardhendusekhar Mushtafi. Bagbazar Amateur Theatre evolved initially to Calcutta National Theatre and went on to shed ‘Calcutta’ to become National Theatre while rehearsing another play by Mitra called ‘Leelavati’. Bhuvanmohun Niyogi who was the proprietor also held rehearsals at a beautiful pillared structure on Rasikchandra Niyogi Ghat in Bagbazar where Girishchandra met his prodigy, Binodini for the first time. Rasaraj (King of Wit) Amritalal Basu known for his farces, also hailed from Bagbazar. Khirodprasad Bidyabinod was another noted playwright of the era.

Mohanchand Basu who pioneered the half-akhrai songs also lived in Bagbazar in the 19th century. He was a disciple of Nidhu Babu. Bagbazar was also known for its Pakkhir Dal, members who not only were renowned musicians but also indulged in various addictions like ganja, charas and guli except alcohol. In fact there was an aatchala built by the sons of wealthy denizen, Durgacharan Mukhopadhyay where there were separate designated area for each addiction and the 108 odd members would spend the entire day pursuing such habits.

Nagendranath Basu who edited ‘Biswakosh’, the Bengali encyclopedia resided at 8, Kantapukur Bylane. It was later renamed as Biswakosh Lane. Bhola Maira, the renowned kaviyal (verse-contestant) had a sweet-meat shop on Bagbazar Street. So did Nabin Moira, inventor of sponge rasogolla.

Bagbazar Reading Library is another noted institution, founded in 1883 which has a collection of rare books and journals. In old days the neighbourhood had several schools like Bagbazar Seminary, Bagbazar Model School, Shyampukur Branch of Vidyasagar’s Metropolitan Institution, Savitri Girls’ school along with a large number of Tol where Sanskrit was taught.

It is said that Bagbazar had the largest number of disciples of Sri Ramakrishna Paramhansa. He often stayed at the house of his householder devotee, Balaram Bose. Ramakrishna Mission was formed at this house by Swami Vivekananda on May 1, 1897. The house is known as Balaram Mandir and preserves a wooden rath pulled by the Paramhansa on the day of Ratha Jatra. A little distance away was the house of Girish Chandra, noted playwright, actor and an ardent disciple of Ramakrishna. Although the house is no more because of the northward extension of Central Avenue, a small replica has been preserved. Maa Sarada also lived in a number of rented houses in Sarkarbari Lane, Bosepara Lane, Bagbazar Street and other areas. Sister Nivedita chose to open her school in Bosepara and hosted the historic tea party where Swami Vivekananda and Tagore had met. The office of the RKM’s organ, Udbodhan founded by Swami Vivekananda is also located at Bagbazar.

Basubati, the palatial mansion of Nandalal and Pashupatinath Basu is another iconic landmark which still stands wearing a decrepit look. Both Sri Ramakrishna and Vivekananda had frequented this house and the latter had stayed here after his return from the West. A witness to the nationalist struggle during Partition, Surendranath Banerjee gave the call to “unsettle the settle fact” to the gathering masses in 1905 in its vast courtyard. In 1913 an exhibition of Swadeshi goods was held here; it was inaugurated by Basanti Devi, wife of CR Das and a fund was also collected.

The neighbourhood was also home to a circus company called Benimadhav Circus. Anadi Bose pioneered film distribution with the establishment of Aurora Cinema Company which had distributed ‘Pather Panchali’ as well. Radha Gobindo Kar established his medical school and hospital in a rented place which was later renamed after its founder.

Bagbazar is also known for its Durga Puja. It was celebrated for the first time at Sarkarbari, at the crossing of Nebubagan Lane and Bagbazar Street; it was named as “Nebubagan Baroyari Durga-puja”.  After four years it was shifted to the crossing of Bagbazar Street and Pashupati Bose Lane. Next year it was held at Kantapukur and in 1927 it took place at the Bagbazar Kali-temple. In 1926 social worker, Nagendra Nath Ghoshal along with other well-known people took initiative to give shape to Bagbazar Sarbojanin Durgotsav Committee. In 1930, Durgacharan Bandyopadhyay, an alderman at Calcutta Municipal Corporation was elected as president and the exhibition held during Puja reflected the ideals of Swadeshi movement. Bandyopadhyay requested the Mayor of Calcutta, Subhash Chandra Bose for permission to use a metal-yard belonging to CMC’s road-repair department as the venue of the Puja which was immediately granted. The Puja still retains that old Calcutta charm.