Durga Puja of Surul Sarkarbari

Kinjal Bose

Durga Puja is celebrated in a grand way in the homes of many ‘bonedi’ families with deep roots in West Bengal. Surul Sarkarbari or Surul Rajbari, which is roughly 5 kilometres from Bolpur railway station in Birbhum, is home to two family lineages, namely, Baro Taraf and Choto Taraf. Here Durga Puja is held with much pomp and grandeur.

The road leading to this house is usually crowded with people, many from Kolkata, and parked cars. A number of temporary shops selling various items are also set up in front of Surul Sarkarbari, giving it a look of a fair.

On entering Surul Sarkarbari (Baro Taraf), one will come across a large courtyard with a Natmandir in the middle. A large chandelier hangs from the top. A number of other lamps, made of Belgian glass also hang hanging from the ceiling. These lamps are lit with castor oil. In the evening, these lamps in the large courtyard (thakur dalan) and the Natmandir provide a deep feeling of nostalgia.

According to family sources, this nearly 290 years old Puja is held following the shakta rituals. Like other bonedi houses, the protima (deity) is made in this dalan after performing the kathamo puja on the auspicious day of Rathayatra.

There is a pancharatna (five pinnacled) terracotta temple dedicated to Lakshmi Janardan and two Deul shaped temples dedicated to Lord Shiva outside the courtyard. Two terracotta panels of Goddess Durga, one in the Pancharatna temple and another in the Deul are placed close to each other. After completion of the puja of Lakshmi Janardan, the salagram sila is taken to another place, followed by animal sacrifice on Mahastami. Scarifice is also conducted on Saptami and Nabami. On Saptami, chalkumro (a vegetable) and on Nabami both chalkumro and sugarcane are also ceremonially sacrificed outside the Natmandir.

Seasonal fruits and eighteen different types of sweets, all prepared in the household are offered to Devi Durga from Tritiya, the third day of celebration.

The stucco work in the Dalan belonging to Baro Taraf was built by Srinibas Sarkar. It is noteworthy that Kumari puja and dhuno porano are not performed here. Additionally, Sindur khela or vermillion play, which is a common feature in barowari and household pujas, are not performed here.

The puja of Sarkar Bari (Choto Taraf) is held in a separate dalan just behind Lakshmi Janardan Temple. The Nabapatrika is carried on a palanquin by four Brahmins. Like Baro Taraf, the Protima is prepared in thakur dalan following the Kathamo puja. According to a family member of Choto Taraf, earlier there was a single puja. However, today both the Protimas are prepared by the same artisan.

All the rituals and practices of the Boro Taraf puja are conducted here at Chhoto Taraf Puja, except that chandeliers at Natmandir are lighted by electricity.