General Post Office A Collector’s Stamp By Itself

Joydip Sur

As you enter the realm of the General Post Office, one is immediately transported to a bygone era. The GPO is one of those places, which is thronged by thousands of people everyday who go on with their daily mundane business without realising the significance of this stunning building in the annals of postal history of India.

The construction of this breath-taking edifice has an equally fascinating story. The site of the old Fort William in the Dalhousie Square was selected for the construction of the new GPO. The southern and eastern corners of the Fort were then in ruins and desolate. Later it had to be cleared during the years 1856–57 to 1862–63 at a cost of 3,000 rupees. The removal of old foundation was a work of great difficulty owing to the extreme hardness of the masonry, which in many cases, could only be removed by blasting.

The construction of the General Post Office commenced in 1864 based on the design of renowned architect Walter B. Granville and the new building was rendered immortal by the great obstetric engineering of Dr. Slop. In 1865, the Government of Bengal was satisfied with the progress made and was expected to be completed in the month of May 1866 but the failure of the lofty columns of the eastern portico delayed the completion of the building.

The original plan was prepared to afford a convenient substantial post office, large enough to meet the requirements of Calcutta for a century and capable of enlargement at any future period as may be deemed necessary, but the plan did not work even during the progress of the construction. The construction of the new GPO was a long drawn affair, witnessed with keen interest by historians and architects.

The Imperial Government made all possible effort and reasonable expenditure to build a splendid architectural exterior befitting to the once British Capital in India. The famous contractors Mackintosh Burn & Co constructed the grand dome.

It is interesting to note that the PWD Bengal stated in 1867, “The new Post Office is now completed with the exception of a few trivial works. The dome has been completed and scaffoldings removed. It has been finished off with a moulded octagonal finial but it is regretted that the funds did not admit of its being surmounted with a lantern, which could have added much to the artistic effect of the dome. The love for the beauty of the Englishmen drew sympathy from all for their failure to add artistic effect to the dome.”

The government could not sanction the additional funds as it was diverted due to out break of famine in Bengal and plague in western India by this time. Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, presented a costly and decorative lantern in order to beautify the building. Finally, the construction work concluded in 1868.

The GPO consists of two lofty storeys the east and south fronts being faced with handsome Corinthian columns, flanked by massive piers in which provide the platform for the stairs cases. The southeast angle of the building is semicircular, also faced with Corinthian columns, leading to a lofty circular hall in which are the public letter boxes. This majestic edifice is crowned by a dome, which forms one of the most conspicuous landmarks of Calcutta.

The building is approached by handsome flights of steps. The flights of steps on both sides of the building are considered longest in the world. The building has a floor area of 4,81,84 square feet with a height of 220 feet. The big clock of the imposing building, purchased in 1896 at a cost of 7,000 rupees from the famous manufacturer of Big Ben clock of London, fixed in 1897 above the semi circular entrance and below the dome, is an eternal testimony which attracts the attention and admiration of millions of public daily in its loud but musical gongs, during the long 140 years of its existence.

Upon entering the portico through the elegantly curved entrance one would witness modest counters devoted to the sale of stamps, franking, enquiry and other services. Right in the middle of this grand hall stands a wonderful statue depicting a postman sculpted by renowned sculptor Sanatan Rudra Pal. The all-important dome, sixty-eight metres high, it is truly a masterpiece. Twenty-eight modified Corinthian engaged columns ornamentally hold up the dome on the exterior. When your eye travels up into the interior of the dome, the effects of the light within the sphere of suspended space tends to have an unusual effect on you.

During the early days, the Postmaster General had his offices on the first floor of the main block. It is said that in 1880 there were as many as 558 clerks and 429 servants working in the GPO.

The GPO functions as the chief post office of West Bengal and houses an adjacent redbrick building, the Postal Museum that was built in 1884. The museum displays a wide collection of artifacts and stamps, which includes antique cast iron post boxes, signal lights from the Railway Mail Service, franking seals, copies of charters, etc commemorating the history of postal services in India. At the southwestern end of the building is the Philatelic Bureau, which is a collector’s delight. Visitors can buy some of the more recent first day covers and mint stamps at cost price from the Bureau.

As you step out of the GPO and look around, you will be smitten with the wave of life that surrounds this place. Around the periphery of the GPO are several small traders engaging in the sale of post-cards, inland letters, envelopes and stamps among many others postal items. There are so many people who have been earning their daily bread from here for the past many years. There are many road-side stall selling various food items ranging from fruits, jhal muri and puchka to sherbet, rolls and omlettes. The place is throbbing with life and activity.

The GPO is truly a fascinating place to visit. We had a wonderful time exploring this historical edifice and urge you to go on a trail to rediscover this beautiful structure. If possible, visit the GPO after the sun has bid adieu for the day. Trust us, when the moonlight shines down upon the GPO, it looks celestial. So don’t waste anymore time. Just book your date with history.