Nakhoda Masjid Magnificient Munificence

Joydip Sur

Calcutta’s history is primarily Anglican but one can feel the ambience of Old Delhi once you walk a few paces on Rabindra Sarani from Lalbazar end to enter Zakaria Street where the majestic Nakhoda, the city’s largest and grandest mosque stands. In this edition, we take you on a tour of the imposing edifice, soaking in the ambience of its bustling neighbourhood.

The word “Nakhoda” means mariner. The Nakhoda Masjid was built in 1926 by a shipping prince Abdur Rahim Osman, the leader of a small community of Muslims hailing from Gujarat. It was built at a cost of

Rs 1,500,000. This gesture of munificence was particularly significant because it was assumed that the wealthier section of the Muslims primarily resided in East Bengal and hence such a grand project could not be even conceived in Calcutta.

Nakhoda Masjid is a beautiful specimen of Indo-Saracenic (mingling of oriental and western designs) architecture, inspired by the Mughal era but freely adapted to suit the 20th century. It also seems to be intermittently inspired by Emperor Akbar’s Tomb at Sikandra near Agra and Khusrau Bagh Monument in Allahabad but does not display any specific imitation of the said monuments. The main entrance is certainly influenced by the Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri.

The main entranceway is made of red sandstone brought in from Dholpur and rises high above the ground while the rest of the facade is painted terracotta red. The green coloured dome sits pretty, lending that touch of added splendor. The contrasting red exterior, the green domes, yellowish green minars and minarets (which are 50 and 30 metres high, respectively) all contribute to give Nakhoda Masjid that imposing look which dominates the city’s skyline in the north.  A fancy clock protrudes from the lofty walls near the top most storey.

Once you step inside, in the courtyard a central well opens, built to accentuate the acoustical effect for the worshippers at the upper storeys of the mosque. Considered to be the principal mosque of the city, the prayers halls of the Nakhoda can accommodate up to 10,000 people.

The pillars are painted in attractive shades of yellow and green. Lavish use of marble in the interiors sets a contrast to its red facade and greatly adds to the beauty. While the multi-hued glass chandeliers from Bohemia light up the interior, turquoise blue bulbs and mirror balls are to be found among the scalloped arches. The upper floors have south facing loggias and screens are fitted to the arches and balustrades below the windows. An array of balconies and terraces extend out of the prayer halls.

The mosque stands in the heart of a congested trading neighbourhood, comprising mostly hardware shops. However, it stands in harmony with the residential buildings and trading establishments that clutter the structure from all sides, reminiscent of cities which flourished under Islamic rule like Old Delhi, Lucknow and Hyderabad. Rizwan Karim who has been selling attar on the pavement outside the mosque for the past 29 years says: “After Dalhousie Square this was the nerve centre of trade during the Raj. However, this place has seen a lot of change in the past two decades. New shops have mushroomed; tram tracks have been repaired while new street lamps were installed changing the streetscape.”

Despite the change, the mosque along with Salehee Musafirkhana and the Madrasa Jamalia Arabia lends the locality a distinct charm. From the upper storeys of the mosque on the Zakaria Street side, one can see the shops of Muslim tea brokers. The delicate fragrance of tea mingles with the attars sold on the pavements keeping the neighbourhood scented throughout the day. During Eid the mosque is decorated with lights and twinkles like a new bride.

Nakhoda Masjid presents a study of contrasts—its diverse architectural style, the varied hues on its walls and dome, its majestic edifice in the midst of a cluttered surrounding, yet remains a constant reminder of a harmonious orchestra called life.