Oh Cutlet!

Arjun Mukherjee

Of all the things the British left us with, the Kabiraji Cutlet is strictly a survivor. Call it an unused British surplus thought of as dispensable.

The tongue needs enrichment and the cultivated Bengalee in his state of refinement would surely leave all inhibitions to wolf down this illustrious son of a cutlet.

The reason for falling upon such a subject is to resurrect the Kabiraji from obscurity and save it the dishonour of not having the cutlet on a propah menu.

The Kabiraji, I dare say, has not fallen into sudden disrepute. And it is not dishonourable for me to snap my fingers and order the Kabiraji at Caclutta’s famous kitchens – Bijoli Grill, Malancha, Mitra Cafe, or what have you.

These remarkable places do not need an introduction when it comes to cooking the Kabiraji.

Devotees, sorry admirers, of this species of cutlet will wait no end like a dependant, to lap up this heavenly British brainchild.

Nomenclature
The British being of the typical tongue twisting kind, aptly called it ‘Chicken Coverage’.

‘Cover’ because it comes in an overlay of sliced chickens treated gingerly with ginger, a dash of garlic and onion among other spices.

The Kabiraji is camouflaged by dipping it in a cloak of eggs magnificently fried. The secrecy of the inside and the so-called covering of the chicken with breadcrumbs make for its ‘cover’.

The Bengalee cook likes to refer to the cutlet as ‘Kabiraji’ simply because he is unable to cleanly pronounce ‘coverage’.

For good Bengalee cooks, bad pronunciation has come to good use.

Procedural Pleasure
The well-bred Kabiraji must have marinated chicken dipped in ginger and turmeric paste for a respectful two hours. It will be uncivil not to separate the whites from the yolks.

For a gracious ‘serve’ whip the whites till fairly stiff, mix the yolks with flour and breadcrumbs, stir the whites, heat the oil till smoking, coat the chicken with white butter and gently lower and cook on low till done. Procedure remains unchanged with mutton, fish or prawn.The final result is ecstasy for tongues seeking Shangri-la.

Writing on the Kabiraji Cutlet is not an exercise of the scatterbrained. Working on it with scrupulous regard is a salute to an admirable cutlet on exulted heights.

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