On the Trail of Mango

Team Chronicle

The month of May, undoubtedly, would have been the cruellest for Calcuttans if not for the mango. The unbearable scorching heat, the humidity, the trickling sweat – despite the obvious discomfort, the only thing that makes the hearts of Calcuttans serenade, is the sight of ripe mangoes in different hues and sizes, heaped on wicker baskets at every bazaar – big or small or cart-loaded on the roadside.

The arrival of spring in this city of joy is marked by the advent of blossoms on the mango tree. Right from then, Calcuttans are on the mango trail. Every Nor’wester is greeted with trepidation, despite the relief it brings from the scorching summer heat. How much damage it has caused to the mango crop? Will it be a lean season or a bumper crop? Such thoughts randomly cross our anxious minds. And finally just like the age-old bickering over Mohun Bagan and East Bengal, illish and chingri the argument continues over the best variety of mango – Himsagar or Langra.

Mango aficionados will also tell you the best way to buy this succulent fruit; smell the fruit near its stalk and if that sweet, musky aroma hits your senses, you can be assured of its quality. There are about 1000 varieties of mangoes grown in India. Green, pale yellow, green and yellow, red-hued near the stalk but rest brilliant like the yellow sun– small and oval shaped, large and even oblong ones – mangoes come in myriad hues and shapes. Each variety of the mango is different in taste and texture. But markets in Calcutta stock only about 10 varieties– the most popular ones are ofcourse, the home grown, Himsagar and Langra. Gulabkhas, the other local variety is mostly used to make

juices. A small quantity of the famed Chausa and Dussehri from NorthIndia also reaches the fruit markets of Bowbazar and Mechua Bazaar. From there the fruit reaches out to other markets of the city as well. But the mango season in the city is ushered in by South Indian varieties, Parkulman and Baganpalli alongwith the home grown Gulabkhas. However, the real season for mangoes in the city begins when the king of mangoes, Himsagar makes an entry in the market.

In this issue we have listed 10 varieties sold in the markets of Calcutta according to their popularity. Familiarise yourself with different kinds of mangoes – the ones that are the yummiest and juiciest or those which are perfect for your mango-based-dessert recipes. In short, join us on this mango trail.

Himsagar
No paeans are simply enough to describe Himsagar. Its firm and fibre less pulp coupled with musky sweet taste makes it the king of mangoes in Bengal. This variety traces its origin to Chandannagar, Shantipur and Basirhat. A variety of Himsagar from Bihar also enters the city market but is no match to those from Bengal’s orchards. Owing to its delicious taste and fair price, it is a fruit for masses. However, the undisputed king makes its admirers wait till May and stays for about a month.

Appearance: Medium-sized, ovate withequal shoulders and a thin green skin
Origin: West Bengal

Langra
Langra too has conquered hearts. Another favourite variety of Calcuttans, Langra comes from the orchards of Malda, Basirhat, Chandannagore and Shantipur. In fact, Langra from Shantipur is considered to be the best. A variety from UP as well as from Bhagalpur in Bihar, also end up in the city’s markets. Langra arrives somewhat late, not before June. Its pulp is firm, lemon yellow in colour and less fibrous. It has characteristic aroma, a slim seed, which means more flesh, and is used for canning and slicing. Arriving in June, it wins hearts for more than two months and is generally used to prepare amsatta.

Appearance: Medium-sized, ovatewith equal shoulders – it has a lemongreen skin colour
Origin: Bihar and West Bengal

Chousa
Its literal meaning (sucking) says it all. Chousa is the sweetest of all mangoes and has its cultivars in UP. It has a slightly thick skin and is little fibrous at the tip with firm flesh towards the end. Among the last variety of mango, the season bids adieu with Chousa.

Appearance: Chousa has a distinctive look and is large ovate with oblong ventral shoulder
Origin: Northern India

Gulabkhas
The mango season is greeted by Gulabkhas. Its sweet and sour taste is ideal for those who do not have a sweet tooth. Usually a variety of South India, its Bengal variety – Baraipur and Tollygunge Gulabkhas, is sweeter than its South Indian counterpart. It is utilised primarily for making juices and mango based desserts. The thick mango juice made from Gulabkhas mangoes, served with cashew and raisins at Esplanade and Shyambazar is the best cooler.

Appearance: It has a very distinct look. Medium sized with an oval body, Gulabkhas is green/yellow in colour with red patch on the top.
Origin: South India and West Bengal

Dushehri
A variety from Uttar Pradesh, it has a good fan base in the city. It is less fibrous and sweet in taste.

Appearance: It is medium sized, oblong with equal shoulders and medium thick skin. Usually a delight from Northern India, it is yellow with a tinge of green
Origin: Northern India

Fazli
This variety is indigenous to Bengal and Bihar. Grown in the orchards of Malda, it is a late maturing mango and is unique because of its large size. It is known for its juicy pulp.

Appearance: Its large size and green skin are its distinctive factors
Origin: Bihar and West Bengal

Baganpalli
Among the earliest variety, Baganpalli is not too sweet but is meaty and fibre less. A variety of South India, it is best utilised in making mango candies or amsatta.

Appearance: It is among the larger variety of mangoes that is slightly oval with a ventral shoulder. Its skin is thin and smooth of bright golden yellow hue
Origin: Andhra Pradesh

Totapuri
A South Indian variety, it is not very popular among the masses but has its share of admirers who love its sweet and sour taste.

Appearance: It is available in medium to large size with prominent sinus towards the end that is very typical of the variety.
Origin: South India

Alphanso
Among the starting variety, Alphonso, popularly known as Hafoos in Maharashtra, is very attractive owing to its golden yellow skin that is smooth and flawless. This non-Bengal variety that is generally sweet and fibre less, fails to be a mass product owing to its price. Though it is exported because of long shelf life, it does not cut much ice with Caluttans who swear by Himsagar and Langra.

Appearance: Generally medium ovate with an oblong base and slightly flattened ventral shoulder. Its aroma is seductive.
Origin: Western and Southern India

Parkulman
A debutant variety, known by different names in different parts of the city, it is popularly described as South India’s Himsagar. However, it is no match for the king.

Appearance: A variety from Andhra Pradesh, it is medium in size, usually oval with thin yellow skin
Origin: South India

Among the different varieties, Himsagar is considered to be the undisputed king with Langra almost in the same league. While the two wholesale markets –Kolay Market at Sealdah and Mechua Bazaar at Burrabazaar swear by Himsagar, retail markets like Jadubabu-r Bazaar in south Calcutta goes by Langra that corners almost 60 per cent of the sale. Apart from the popular varieties, there are many lesser known mangoes that quietly share a place in the market. Also, there are some hybrid ones such as Mallika, Amrapalli, Pusa, Arunima and Haariaam which are mostly among the late entrances in the market.

There cannot be a summer without mango and so indulge in this seasonal bestseller in whatever form you like – fresh fruit, juices, smoothies, mango shakes, lassies, etc. Just let yourself go, without a slice of inhibition.