Radha Bazaar Lane Sands of Time

Ankita Chakraborty

A giant wooden table where he used to keep all his belongings always arranged meticulously; lots of tiny bottles of globules and potions, a white china clay jar with milky white powder inside, a stethoscope, prescription pad, golden fountain pen and a silver watch. A shiny silver pocket watch with Roman numbers and a long chain hanging from it. This was my grandfather’s table, to which I always had immense attraction and curiosity as a child.

His death was a loss that I never saw coming. And I didn’t get to keep all his belongings. But I got the pocket watch, to keep his memory ticking with me.

It’s a hand winding watch, which after all these years, hardly looks silver anymore. But it was still ticking and showing time, until last month. I realised something clicked inside, perhaps broke, while I was trying to wind and fix it. I was hurt.

I took it to our local watch shop, but he gave me a disappointed look and asked me to try my luck at Radha Bazaar Lane.

“Radha Bazaar where”, I asked, while considering if travelling to some lane in the suburbs, just to repair a watch sounded practical or not. I had no idea that Radha Bazaar Lane is in the heart of Calcutta itself! Right behind Lalbazaar Police headquarters, a moderately narrow lane took me to Radha Bazaar, last Saturday.

As soon as I stepped out of my car, the very place intrigued me, its old world charm mixed with the modern era fascinated me, like a world frozen in time, still telling the time tale! I wanted to explore more.

History
Radha Bazaar Lane watched the time since the pre-independence days. During World War II, India had an open government licence policy (OGL) for importing watches. The shops here have sold premium international brands like Tissot, Omega, Faberleuba, and many others at that time. An Omega wrist watch at that time could be bought at a price starting from Rs. 265 and Tissot used to cost around Rs. 150. The military personnel were the main clintele, as the prices then were simply beyond the reach of middle-class Bengalis. Import of foreign watches was banned after independence. However, shipping still continued and 1960 saw foreign watches openly on sale in this street.

However, it was not the custom policy but the lull in the world market of Swiss watches between 1965 and 1985 that compelled many to shut shop. The ones that survived got a fresh lease of life with the arrival of Japanese brands like Seiko and Jordano in 1970. Later in 1985-1988 Titan came and swept the market in India and thereby Radha Bazaar. The big old shops still standing with elan vouch for Titan watches that had kept them going. However, in 1990, the Swiss-made watches made a comeback and since then, there has been no looking back.

Oldest Store
S.H. Mumtazzudin Times (P) Ltd, the shop at the corner right at the entrance, with its three storeyed glamorous building, marks the entry to this lane. It had been standing tall since 1922, and after Firozuddin took over the business from his grandfather and father, it grew taller. They currently have three showrooms here in Radha Bazaar Lane itself and a few more branches in other parts of Calcutta.

“I have sold original Swiss watches at Rs. 50 or Rs. 60 only, those your generation dreams to possess now”, says Mr. Firozuddin. Perhaps because of his close association with China for business purpose, Firozuddin is a man of fine taste and elegance when it comes to tea. Originally, born in Delhi, he came to Calcutta with his family when he was just a month old. He joined his grandfather’s business in 1966, at the age of 16. His well decorated cabin showcases several awards among which a certificate bearing the oldest logo of Tissot at the bottom left corner of the golden frame particularly captivated us.

The Bazaar
Radha Bazaar is known as the hub for quality watches to wholesalers and retailers even today. You are sure to get at least a 10 per cent discount on the original branded watches from any of the showrooms here. The Prime, a luxury watch boutique has its showroom in this lane. Anyone who is finicky about wall clocks or table clocks to match their room decor, are sure to get spoiled for choices at International Watch House at 18, Radha Bazaar Lane.

Besides, if you go deep into the lanes, you will discover the amazing mine of spare parts.Case, dial, belts, key stem, coil, wheels, watch oils, electric circuit board, clock movement machine – so many names, such minute particles, all are sold here. Such is the extent and variety of these spare parts that there are separate shops selling specilised spares.

Swastik Material Traders, also the authorised distributors of Casio, Timex and Maxima watches, specialises in watch case and dial. Everest Trading Company deals with watch belts alone. The whole array of belts that any wrist watch dial can be fitted to, is sold in this shop.

The Craftsmen

“The service centre of the brand couldn’t repair the damage. But Uttam-da has repaired it”, a happy customer told us, taking out a golden wrist watch from his pocket. We figured out this Uttam-da is the Mahanayak of the watch industry. In his dingy shop at 142/1 Radha Bazaar Lane, with two skillful assistants and two 100 watt bulbs hanging from top, Uttam-da has earned his expertise, working along with his father as a kid, since 1966. A wooden platform that functions as the work top bears the time-tale on its wavy eroded curves. Be it some internal injury or a broken metal belt that needs moulding, Uttam-da’s fine craftsmanship comes into action.

The Market
However, when we met Roy-da, at his repairing shop, his fading voice tells a different time tale. His forefathers’ business is still being taken care of by Roy-da. “But I never want my son to get into this. Look at the cheap China watches all over this place. Why would people need to repair old hand winding wrist watch anymore”, he sighed. However, a section of people who wants to stay true to their heritage or heirloom or people who are emotionally attached to their old watches and there are many for that matter, with expertise like Roy or Uttam who will always be valued in Radha Bazaar. Otherwise, Roy Watch Co. can always give their business a new life by stocking some fancy watches that their neighbourhood shop owners have already done.

Insider’s Tip
It would be untrue to say that we had not noticed those star studded colourful ‘China watches’ all around us. These were everywhere, screaming for attention. But it’s only now that we went close to a shop selling these products and enquired. The starting price is Rs. 60. Sporty unisex watches of various themes are available at Rs. 100 only. And the ones that you would love to flaunt in any party or wedding will only cost you around Rs. 150 to 200. In fact, bargain well, and the whole shop could be yours!

I was yet to fix my grandfather’s watch, which I had left with Roy-da. To my utmost delight, I found it was ticking and showing exact time! Roy da has taken good care of it in this short while. Another customer was wearing a similar smile while walking out of this shop. I followed him out through the narrow lane and stopped him to have a few words. He was Apurba Narayan Goswami, a.k.a. Appu, a passionate antique watch collector. He comes here regularly to collect watches for his curio collection. We were awestruck when he took out two very old pocket watches and declared each one has cost him Rs. 200 only. I asked in haste, “But who sold you such antique pieces here in Radha Bazaar?” He gave a sly smile and pointed towards a biker wearing a helmet, speeding out of Radha Bazaar – the seller! That’s Radha Bazaar for you – a treasure trove of the history of time.